Lenin Peak (7134 m), Оsh – Osh Packages

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Base Camp Achik-Tash will be active between 1st July and 2nd September 2018

Situated in the Pamirs on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tadjikistan, close to the borders with China and Afghanistan, Lenin Peak is one of only five 7000 meter peaks in the former USSR. At 7134 meters it is the third highest, the others being Peak Communism (7495m) and Korzhenevsky (7105m), both in the Pamirs, and Peak Pobeda (7,439m) and Khan Tengri (7010m) in the Tien Shan. To climb all five admits you to the elite group of Russian climbers known as Snow Leopards.

 

Lenin Peak is considered the most accessible 7000-meter mountain. There is a high way going almost to the foot of the peak. Also Lenin Peak by the normal Razdelny route is practically no technical climbing involved.

Route Description

Base camp is situated on a raised meadow between two steep river valleys. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. From BC we head over the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4200m). The ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier (4100m) and hike to camp 1 (4400 m).

 

From camp 1 at 4400 meters, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000 meters we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelny Peak. A short climb up a scree/snow slope leads to camp 2. There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun. Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelny Peak (6148 meters). Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelny Peak the angle steeples.

 

The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelny Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks. Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir. From Razdelny Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 100 meters to Razdelny Pass at 6000 meters. It is here that we will make camp 3.

 

From camp 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible. From here we will have two options. Either we climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6400 meters. From camp 3 we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 4) at 6400 meters. We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit.

 

The summit at 7134 meters is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakoram.

 

Basicprogram: 22days

 

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek. Overnight in hotel.
Day 2. Flight to Osh. Transfer to base camp “Achyk-Tash”
Day3. Acclimatization in the BC, walk to the waterfall.
Day4. Acclimatization hike to the ridge of Petrovskiy Peak
Day5. Climb to Camp 1 (4400m)
Day6. Ascent to Domashniy Peak (4700) or to Yuhin Peak (5100m)
Day7. Getting ready for the ascent
Day8. Climb to Camp 2 (5300m)
Day9. Climb to Camp 3 (6100m)
Day 10-Day 12 Climb to the Base Camp. Rest days.
Day 13. Climb to the Camp 1 (4400m)
Day 14. Climb to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 15. Climb to the Camp 3 (6200 m)
Day16. Ascent of the Lenin peak summit (7134 m) and descent to the Camp 3.
Day 17. Descent to the camp 1 (4400m)
Day18. Descent to the base camp (3600 m)
Day19. Reserve day
Day 20. Transfer to Osh. Overnight in hotel.
Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Overnight in hotel.
Day 22 Departure at home.

 

Cost of the packages in 2018:

 

1 — Osh – Osh program full package 1:1180 USDperson

 

Contact us:

Silk Road & Kyrgyz Guided Trips LLC

Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

189 Tynystanova str., 720000

Requests: silkroadtrip.com@gmail.com

Tel:  +996 312 883644 land line

Whatsapp: +996 557 799683

Web site: http://silkroad-trip.com/

 

Given cost includes:

  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
  • Meeting/seeing off at the airport
  • All transfers according to the program
  • Flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note only 15 kg hand luggage are free of charge!; Extra kilo costs about 1-2 USD)
  • Accommodationin hotel with breakfasts for 4 nights in total during the program (* please consider early check in the hotel)
  • Lunch en route to/from BC
  • Rent of walkie-talkie
  • Registration with rescue team
  • Ecological fee

Services included in package at our camps:

Services in the base camp “AchikTash” on 3600m: Services in the camp 1 on 4400m:

 

Accommodation in double tents. Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms and electricity. Accommodation in double tents with mattresses and wooden platforms.

 

Meals – full board Meals – full board
Guide-consultant’s services Guide-consultant’s services
Dining-tent, WC, storage,  baths and shower Dining-tent, WC tent, storage tent
Medical kit Medical first aid in the base camp (professional doctor)
Electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity! Electricity 220V, 50HZ, only in the evening in the dining room, source-generator

 

The cost does not include:

  • The cost of Kyrgyz visa
  • International flight
  • All optional deviations from the main itinerary
  • Beverages and meals not included in main menu ( meal in the cities and Camp2, Camp3)
  • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
  • The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending
  • The rent of group and personal mountaineering equipment for ascending
  • Full package Bishkek-Bishkek 2 + additional services in 2018: 1520USD/person

Given cost includes:

  • guaranteed installed high altitude tents (2 persons in one tent) on 5300 m, 6200 m
  • boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
  • meeting/seeing off at the airport
  • all transfers according to the program
  • flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note only 15 kg hand luggage are free of charge!; Extra kilo costs about 1-2USD)
  • Accommodation in hotel with breakfasts for 4 nights in total during the program (* please consider early check in the hotel)
  • lunch en route to/from BC
  • rent of walkie-talkie
  • registration with rescue team
  • ecological fee